Clutch functions in the design of a walk-behind tractor
The operation of the clutch is based on the action of the friction clutch. This transmission element performs several important functions, among which stands out:
- Uninterrupted torque transmission;
- Suppression of torsion vibrations;
- Smooth switching of speeds;
- Impactless gear connection;
- Connecting and disconnecting a gearbox with an internal combustion engine;
- Disconnecting the transmission from the flywheel device.
The clutch device makes it possible to briefly turn off the crankshaft of the engine and the power transmission of the machine. Thanks to the clutch, the technique starts and stops the movement smoothly and without jerks.
About motor block Motor Sich. Motoblock clutch adjustment
Motor block clutch adjustment Motor Sich.
Adjustment device, repair, clutch modernization, motor-block Motor Sich.
The MB Motor Sich clutch clutch is a multi-disc permanently closed in an oil bath. Three driven clutch discs and three leading clutch discs, a leading semi-clutch (flower), a driven semi-clutch, three springs, a pusher.
All this can be viewed and found out in more detail in the articles on this website:
In this same article, I want to show the details. where the owner of the motor block Motor Sich summarized his own experience and the experience of other owners in operating MB Motor Sich.
The fact is that the clutch of the Motor Sich walk-behind tractor is really very reliable, there are no complaints and troubles with it, but there are some aspects that, as they operate, each owner of the walk-behind tractor decides for himself, based on his own experience and knowledge.
READ How to Disable Oil Sensor on Motoblock
Naturally, it is always better to use the experience of other owners of similar equipment, especially if this is a positive experience and all improvements lead to positive results.
For example, many owners of Motor Sich walk-behind tractors make cuts on the clutch discs, which has a positive effect on the inclusion of photo gears.
Adjustment device, repair, clutch modernization, motor-block Motor Sich.
If you have any questions or additions, please do not be embarrassed and write in the comments.
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Centrifugal clutch - device and advantages
This kind of element is worth highlighting among other designs due to its reliability and durability. It is used in automatic gearboxes. Its design consists of the following elements:
- flywheel;
- pulley;
- Hubs with locking groove and key;
- flange;
- bushings;
- casing;
- bearing;
- Retaining ring.
One of the most important roles is played by the differential device associated with the centrifugal clutch. It helps to improve the maneuverability of the equipment and ensure smooth movement in corners.
Together with the clutch, the differential regulates the rotation of the wheels of the walk-behind tractor at different speeds. Moreover, the mechanisms that transmit power together act as wheel locks. In some models of equipment, instead of a differential, a special device is installed that blocks one of the wheels of the walk-behind tractor at the command of the driver.
More modern models of equipment are equipped with a friction clutch. It is mounted between the motor and gearbox. In this design, the driven parts are closely connected with the input shaft of the gearbox, and the leading parts are connected with the crankshaft of the motor. In most cases, both driving and driven elements are made in the form of flat round discs, or in the form of a cone. Just like centrifugal, friction clutch is put into operation by manipulating a separate handle.
The principle of operation of the clutch
The clutch for a walk-behind tractor consists of several important elements:
- control devices;
- leading element;
- driven details.
The leading part consists of the front side of the engine flywheel and the pressure plate. The disc rotates with the attached flywheel. At the same time, the disk can also move along the axis with respect to the flywheel. Between these two elements is a driven disk, which is located on the driven shaft. Along the perimeter of the pressure plate are spring elements in the form of cylinders. The function of the springs is based on the compression of the disk they support.
In this case, the other end of the springs is in contact with the casing. Thus, the springs maintain the clutch for the walk-behind tractor in a constant on state.
The control mechanism is made of release levers connected to the pressure plate housing by means of pull rods and a pedal. By disengaging the clutch, the owner of the walk-behind tractor engages the clutch cable, which transfers force to the release levers. When the springs are compressed, the levers move the driven disk away from the pressure one, which leads to the disengagement of the clutch.
The bearing reduces friction by preventing the fixed taper from touching the rotation levers. Most models of walk-behind tractors are equipped with three levers located at an angle of 120 degrees with respect to each other. With the help of a spring, each clutch lever returns to its original position. In this case, the layering moves to the distance necessary to turn off the levers. If this distance is not reached, then the clutch begins to slip.
Plow adjustment on a walk-behind tractor
To work on different types of land, the unit must be configured differently. But the main adjustment occurs in several aspects:
- plowing depth setting;
- angle of attack adjustment;
- cutting of the first furrow.
Plowing depth. The upcoming process of feeding crops depends on the plowing depth option. If you set insufficient depth, then the roots of harmful plants will remain under the soil, and if the depth is very large, then the cereal soil will mix and the plants will not receive suitable nutrient parts.
Attack angle
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Adjustment takes place using the field board. The performance of the unit depends on the angle of attack: if the angle of attack is greater than necessary, the device will get stuck in the ground, and the walk-behind tractor will stall; and if the angle of attack
is missing, then the plow will not remove a suitable layer of earth.
1st furrow. After carrying out all the options, it is necessary to plow the first furrow. At this step, it becomes clear whether the plow is set up correctly. During subsequent plowing, the machine is lowered with one wheel into the track, and the upcoming adjustment takes place in the furrow.
READ How to Adjust a Husqvarna Chainsaw
Single-hull mounted plow SCOUT PL-130 HYD with scoring disc
The share plow SCOUT PL-130 HYD is equipped with a scoring disc for more efficient work on soddy soil. The unit is connected to mini-tractors and walk-behind tractors with a single-point suspension mechanism. The working part is made of reliable steel.
The angle of attack of the coulter is adjusted using lanyards. The limit wheel regulates the depth of plowing. The cutting disc is designed to cut the roots of plants during plowing, which increases the productivity and quality of plowing.
For plowing languid soils and virgin lands, it is necessary to install weights on the equipment: 80 kg in front and 60 kg in the back.
Attack angle
The angle of attack is adjustable on the frame of the device. Adjust the horizontal position of the frame with a turnbuckle and lower the implement until the coulter touches the ground. Later, it is necessary to slightly raise the body so that the rear part of the coulter is raised above the ground by a few cm.
If the angle of attack is very huge, then the walk-behind tractor will burrow into the ground. If the angle of attack is small, then the unit will not sink to a suitable depth, but will plow only the top layer of the earth.
How to make a clutch mechanism with your own hands?
The clutch on the walk-behind tractor works on the principle of increased friction of the components, so rapid wear cannot be avoided. In this case, you should try to make the mechanism with your own hands. The design of a homemade clutch will be composed of:
- the input shaft of the gearbox and the flywheel of the Moskvich car;
- hub and knuckle from Tavria;
- B-profile;
- Two stream driven pulley;
- Crankshaft from GAZ-69.
Subsequent work on the assembly of the mechanism is as follows:
- First you need to grind off the crankshaft so that it does not cling to other elements of the walk-behind tractor;
- We put the regular hub of the walk-behind tractor on the shaft;
- Next, on the shaft, it is necessary to machine a place for the bearing. This operation should be carried out as precisely as possible so that the bearing fits perfectly on the shaft. As a result, the hub should fit without any gaps, and the pulley should scroll;
- Then turn the crankshaft over and do the same on its reverse side;
- Next, with a drill with a 5 mm drill, make 6 holes in the pulley. The distance between them must be the same. Since 10 mm bolts will be used, holes must also be drilled on the back of the wheel that drives the drive belt;
- Next, install the pulley on the flywheel, and tighten both parts with a bolt. After that, mark the drilling locations on the flywheel so that they coincide with the 6 holes in the pulley;
- Remove the pulley and drill holes in the flywheel;
- After that, put the pulley back on and securely tighten the structure with bolts;
- Machine the inner surface of the crankshaft and flywheel so that they do not beat against each other.
The finished structure can be installed in a regular place in the walk-behind tractor. Do not forget to connect the cables, leading them as far as possible from the friction elements.
About walk-behind tractor: exchange of experience, maintenance, repair and attachments
30 comments
Oleg can you tell me something about my question. Explain how to properly adjust the clutch . Yura has 5-10 written along the lever on the handle, and on the box it is necessary that there be 3-5mm of free play. It is necessary to completely loosen the cable at the bottom, adjust the lower lever with a 3-5mm screw, then adjust the free play on the lever on the handlebar. Am I correct or not please explain.
Artyom, as Evgen wrote, the first thing to do on a brand new Motor Sich walk-behind tractor is to lubricate the clutch cable, unprincipled by a large amount of watery engine / transmission oil or grease (I have greased the cable with grease) and later it is necessary adjust the clutch how I personally adjust the clutch on the MB seen on. it seems nothing complicated to disconnect the clutch discs after the MB is idle, you can turn on the fourth gear with the engine not running and try to push the MB (pull the MB towards yourself behind the wheel, in other words, like in reverse - it’s easier on your hands) after which a little ride / on work so that the oil in the gearbox warms up slightly and then adjust the clutch something like this
Yura got a walk-behind tractor m / sich. I'm doing a rundown at the moment. When you squeeze the clutch lever inaudible rumble. Moving in any gear, I squeeze the clutch, the walk-behind tractor will drive a little and then stop. I tried to adjust according to the book, the free play is miniaturized, there is no result. Maybe I'm doing something incorrectly.
Boxes of 4 liters of oil.
Our clutch discs are quite specific. Paronite pads are glued to the main driving discs. From the first day, too, there was a growl of gears. After the break-in, the growl was acceptably gone. A precondition for everything is a small clutch release. I turn on the transfer after a short progazovka with the clutch depressed. If the disks are in a dry state for a long time, then it does not move smoothly, it comes out with a strong jump. Rather than discs soaked in oil - smooth starting. Plans to install the oil sprinkler impeller from MTZ.
Evgen, that's right - when the discs are completely dry, the clutch cuts in abruptly, but when the discs are soaked with oil, they stick together. I also had a theory to wet the discs with oil for smooth switching on (and thought about the impeller) ... In practice, the result is the same - sticking ... How to achieve the result - so that the clutch cuts in smoothly and the discs do not stick together - is still unclear to me. I would like to try to lubricate the clutch cable along the entire length, it seems to me that part of the problem - why the clutch abruptly “grabs” - is that the cable, when the clutch lever is released, does not move synchronously with the lever, but sticks out a little - due to excess friction in the sleeve …
Oleg, my clutch cable was lubricated immediately after purchasing the walk-behind tractor, everything works fine
The cable is greased. The clutch engages smoothly - and this is with dry discs, without any slip in the oil.
Oleg, here I am about the same
Be sure to lubricate the cable. This is the 1st rule. And the discs will stick together, since paronite is a somewhat porous material. We keep the clutch squeezed out longer - we do not one, so two or three gas passes, the disks should disperse. DO NOT FORGET to insert MAGNETS into the drain plugs of the bortoviks and boxes, I took them from the headphones, diameter 8 / 2.5, they create oil purification very well. And the iron suspension introduces its own changes into the viscosity of the oil, insignificant, but noticeable. On Mastergrad, I posted pictures showing all the results of inserting magnets. The oil is pure, without iron suspension.
Evgen, maybe, in any case, it is necessary to try
I don’t know who invented this myth about the clutch in an oil bath ... My problems with the clutch began from the first day of acquiring a walk-behind tractor (in fact, it was unrealistic to switch gears - that’s all growling). They told me that change the oil to a higher quality one and everything will be fine ...
I did not believe these words. I dismantled the walk-behind tractor and began to look - what's what. The reason turned out to be common - there was some kind of resin on the discs, which, when the clutch was released, tightly glued the discs together. I washed it with gasoline and that's it.
But that's not the point, I was interested in the oil bath, and most importantly - how oil should have got on the clutch discs - the oil is there - at the bottom, on the bottom, and the clutch is at the top, significantly higher than the oil level ... And so and so I figured , arranged experiments, but none of the versions fit. Well, there's no way oil can get in there! Well, is it necessary there? They say - it is necessary! Excellent - dripped a few drops of oil on the discs. What happened? Glued together! They say - cuts are needed, then they will not stick together! Well - made cuts! Dropped a little oil - stuck together! I wiped the discs (seemingly imitating the waste of oil under the action of centrifugal force) - they stick together anyway! I washed it a little with gasoline and rubbed it - amazingly, but light sticking is still there. Only when I washed it perfectly with gasoline and rubbed it perfectly - only then did the disks finish sticking together and the “ringing of bells” appeared. My conclusion is that there should be no oil on the discs! They must be dry! And if someone thinks that the disks are spinning and ringing, bathing in an oil bath, then try to arrange this bath for them! This sticky “waffle cake” cannot ring!
As for the cuts, now I’m thinking: were they necessary at all? I can only console myself with the theory - that cuts are necessary in case of oil getting in (and oil can get in - except when tipping over the walk-behind tractor) - maybe it will still go away (as someone says) under the action of centrifugal force ...
Hi Oleg! Although he didn’t write to me in classmates, well, how did I read your last article here. Thank you for writing on this topic, and I also did it like you dry. Look, “Belarus 05-013” has an impeller on the secondary shaft that sprays the clutch on the clutch, and when I looked after removing the motor from the Grasshopper motoblock - there is no winglet. That's why I wiped it dry and didn't drink it. It should be dry. On a slight forward tilt of the engine inside, the oil should not seem to touch the discs.
Vladimir, I don’t visit Odnoklassniki at all, I’m probably a different Oleg - not the one you think ... I know people who have long been driving without any cuts and do not understand why they are needed. I did it on the advice, guided by the theory laid out, now I see that it was possible not to make any cuts ... If the box starts to growl, then in my opinion - you can simply disconnect the engine, disassemble the clutch and wash it perfectly - most likely it dries up on the disks in one fine moment got there oil. The fact that after sawing the linings of the discs, the clutch starts to work normally, this is most likely a consequence of the fact that, along with sawing the linings, they are also PRO-TI-RA-UT.
READ Changing the Oil in the Engine of the Motoblock Neva
I just wiped the clutch discs with a cloth until dry and wiped the sandpaper over the steel driven discs to smoothness, they were completely rough, otherwise they put traces on the surface in a glass. I probably realized Oleg that the clutch should work dry if the impeller is not installed. After all, in an oil bath, the transmission oil is not enough to the level of the clutch, and it seems to me that a very inclination to the ground with the nose forward of the motor can be seen as unsuitable.
